Muztagh Ata Weather
The period with the best snow conditions and weather on Muztagh Ata is usually considered to be at the end of July and beginning of August. An earlier ascent can result in tough route finding and deep snow. If you climb later in the season you may have to deal with fresh deep snow, or icy slopes and crevasses that are at their yawning largest. For all times of the year it is worth carrying ascent type snowshoes to help deal with deep and/or soft snow.
The temperatures can vary massively and of course the wind chill in exposed locations can take you from t-shirt to down jacket weather quickly. On the summit in particular it will be necessary to be prepared for temperatures down to -30degC with wind chill. Night time temperatures in the tents will almost certainly be at -10degC or lower so a 5 season sleeping bag and mat will be essential along with a careful transition to and from your sleeping bag from your clothes!
It’s common with 4-6 days of good weather and as many with bad. The bad weather during this season usually consists of overcast skies, some snow and high winds on the higher reaches. However, once established, a heavy storm can sit on the mountain for a number of days. With very low visibility, high winds, snowfall and thunder & lightning we will have no choice but to descend and wait it out. This potentially depressing process can be partially alieviated by a visit to a local town or the hot springs.
Fortunately, For Muztagh Ata climbers, its higher neighbour Kongur Shan often attracts the worst of the weather in the area and it’s a common sight to have quite nice weather on Muztagh Ata, while Kongur is completely covered in clouds.