Mount Everest expedition
Our trip to Mount Everest provides a high level of support and guiding for this expedition to the highest peak in the world.
We have run six successful expeditions to both the north and south sides, and we have a solid team of climbing Sherpas and base camp staff fully employed by Adventure Alternative Nepal. The Nepalese company is fully registered and we provide full training and insurance for all staff.
We offer a fully supported expedition package for small climb teams, with 1:1 Sherpa guide support, supplementary oxygen and base camp facilities. We also have the flexibility to provide expedition logistics and facilities for independent groups wishing to climb without supplementary oxygen or attempting other routes than the south east ridge.We can supply a western guide on some but not all our Everest trips, and we provide excellent base camp and camp two cooks. The trip utilises a tried and tested regime of acclimatisation and carries to put the high camps in, followed by a summit period using bottled oxygen.
We provide a complete advisory service for people with aspirations to attempt Mount Everest or other 8000 metre peaks. This includes a reasonable and safe acclimatisation programme over a period of time in order to build up the necessary experience and test ability and metabolic response to being at high altitude.
We also look at specific challenges facing the aspirant Everest climber, including using fixed lines, using supplementary oxygen, campcraft, maintaining good health at high altitude for long periods, mental preparation and teamwork. Despite being the highest, Everest is not the most difficult of the 8000 metre peaks, but it does present certain unique challenges which need to be addressed. Principal among these is the fact the final camp at just under 8000 metres, puts a considerable strain on the body. Preparation and planning will be a big part of the journey for any member of our team.
Mount Everest itinerary
Mount Everest is a 9 week expedition in total, with 2 weeks trekking time and 7 weeks climbing period.
We work to an agreed principle of reaching specific heights and sleeping at certain camps in a structured fashion over an eight week period having reached base camp, allowing for both stocking the camps and an optimal time for acclimatisation. The programme for climbing members is determined in large part by the schedule of stocking camps, which in turn is determined by weather and allowing for enough rest breaks.
The first 10 days are spent trekking to Base Camp. There is then a period of rest and settling in. Team leaders will meet and discuss joint operations on issues like putting in the fixed lines. Teams also have to wait for the Icefall to be 'fixed' by the Sherpa teams whose job it is to put in the ladders and fixed lines.
The next month will be spent making a number of exploratory climbs to Camp 1 through the Khumbu Icefall, and then to Camp 2, where it is important to spend several nights. Weather and adaptation to the altitude will determine the exact days when the team climbs and rests. Carries of personal gear can be made while the Sherpas are putting in all the main equipment up to the high camps. During this time we also acclimatise by climbing another peak in the locality, such as Lobuche East or Island Peak.
There is at least one visit to Camp 3 for an overnight. Nowadays this is a requirement for going higher to Camp 4, and it will be a good chance to test the body's response to very high altitude. For most people Camp 3 is the highest point they will reach without the use of bottled oxygen although some people opt to buy extra bottles to help getting to this point. After visiting Camp 3, there is generally a rest at Base Camp or lower, in preparation for the summit bid.
Once the decision has been made to attempt a summit in a period sometime within the middle two weeks of May (statistically this is the normal period, but people have summited before and after), then the total summit cycle from base to summit and back is normally seven days.
A few days spent back at base camp helping to clear the camp is followed by a trek back to Lukla and a flight to Kathmandu. Some people choose to charter a helicopter, which is fine but we do feel that it is important to help the Sherpas clear the mountain.
We will need to sight your insurance policy and advise on what is required and which companies are currently offering policies for high altitude trips like this.
Mount Everest expedition cost £28,000.00
- Khumbu Icefall Fee
- SPCC garbage fee & Base Camp garbage management
- Fixed line collective fee above base camp
- Himalayan Rescue Assn Base Camp Fund for medical emergencies.
- Liaison officer wages and allowance
- Climbing Sherpas (1:1) and chief guide
- Cooks, kitchen boys and porters
- Staff rescue and medical insurance
- All meals on the trip
- Sleeping tents at base camp (1 per member)
- Toilet and shower tent
- Radio sets - base set and hand helds
- Generator and solar panels
- First aid kits
- Oxygen bottles (7 per person), plus one mask and regulator per person
- Gas cylinders and gas stoves for cooking at high camps
- Fixed rope and snow bars
- Mountain tents for high camps (North Face VE25)
- BC and C2 mess tent and cooking equipment
- Cargo costs from KTM to Lukla
- Domestic Flights to Lukla for members and main staff
- Trek costs to Basecamp and equipment transport by yaks and porters
- Accommodation in guesthouse in Kathmandu
- Permit fee for Everest (normally $11,000 per person paid to the Govt of Nepal, figure can be more depending on group size)
- International airfares to Kathmandu
- Personal Insurance
- Personal cargo costs to Nepal
- Personal equipment/climbing gear/vaccinations
- Nepal visa
- Satellite phone calls
- Additional oxygen bottles (USD$480 each)
Insurance for Mount Everest
It is a requirement of the permit for all members to have adequate insurance to cover all eventualities up to the summit of Mount Everest. Few companies are willing to provide this but we can recommend some providers. It will be important to cover trip cancellation due to unforeseen circumstances, and rescue and repatriation from Base Camp which costs USD$10,000. Note that there are no official rescue operations above base camp.
Adventure Alternative Nepal is the company we have set up and invested in over the years, and there is a full complement of staff and equipment available for all major expeditions.
Mount Everest fitness
It is a requirement to be in a state of peak physical fitness for this expedition, and this normally requires a nine to six month lead-in time. An exercise regime which incorporates cardiac strength with training on all the major muscle groups, in particular the thighs and calfs, and the back. Regular hillwalking with a pack on is the best exercise, building up the miles over time and carrying larger packs to a maximum of 15 kilogrammes. The optimum schedule will be to use smaller weights with increased repetition, all the time checking recovery rates.
As important, if not more so, is the mental preparation for a trip like this. Climbing Mt Everest is a tough expedition on the mind, and also for the people you leave behind at home. Be prepared for a rollercoaster of emotions, long days of inactivity followed by short periods of extremely strenuous activity. Boredom, loneliness and missing home are common feelings, and it is impossible to maintain a continual feeling of elation and anticipation for so long. This is where maturity, patience and a love of just being in the mountains is so important. Every day is an experience and must be taken as just that, the summit will be a bonus and a process of cumulative good decision-making and luck.
We recommend that you slow down the intensive physical training about a month before the expedition, it would be a shame to have an accident like a strained muscle in the few weeks before the expedition. Then, when you arrive in Nepal, the trek in to base camp will establish a good level of mountain fitness, and then the first weeks climbing up to Camp 1 and Camp 2 will provide necessary acclimatisation and continued fitness.
Training for Mount Everest
There are now commercial facilities available where it is now possible to engage in programmes of simulated altitude exposure. These can make some assessment of your own body's susceptibility and response to altitude effects and to provide a programme giving some degree of pre-acclimitisation and "altitude training".
Mount Everest personal kit list
A full detailed kit list will be issued to expedition members with suggestions on current manufacturers and models where required.
High altitude double boots for above Camp 2
Alpine boots for up to Camp 2
Base Camp boots
Crampons 12 point
Socks - thick woollen ones and hiking
Balaclava or buffs
White sunhat with neck cover
Goggles with 100% UV lens
Sunglasses with 100% UV lens
Windstopper gloves and fleece gloves
Down mitts - heavyweight and lightweight
Dermatone high altitude suncream
Thermals tops and bottoms, thin and thick
Down jacket - heavy duty and lightweight
Windproof trousers and jacket, or salopettes
Cows tail with jumar and safety karabiner
Descender (figure of 8)
4 screwgate karabiners
3 long slings, 4 short slings
90 litre rucksack
45 litre daysack
Large duffle bag
Many stuff sacks and dry bags
5 season down sleeping bag (above BC)
4 season down/synthetic sleeping bag (BC)
1 litre metal flask
1.5 litre water bottles with Nalgene cover
2 x 1 litre Nalgene water bottles with cover
Headtorch with batteries, high quality (and spare headtorch)
Closed cell sleeping mat
Thermos food flask
Box of repair kits
- All our expeditions are personally planned and led by Gavin Bate and the team of Sherpas in Nepal.
- Full time staff from our Nepali subsidiary company ,Adventure Alternative Nepal, are experienced Everest climbers and logistics managers.
- Members of our own staff have climbed Everest many times and can give you direct advice and information from personal experience.
- We have many years of experience in the organising and running Everest expeditions.
- We have been running treks and expeditions to the Khumbu region for many years and have made many friends and partnerships with the local Nepali communities.
- We provide personalised advice on training and preparation for an Everest expedition.