South East ridgeMount Everest
Our expedition to Mount Everest combines a wide range of expertise and resources in order to provide a high level of support for this expedition to the highest peak in the world.
We have run six successful expeditions to both the north and south sides, and we have a solid team of climbing Sherpas and base camp staff fully employed by Adventure Alternative Nepal. The Nepalese company is fully registered and we provide full training and insurance for all staff.
We offer a fully supported expedition package for small climb teams, with 1:1 Sherpa guide support, supplementary oxygen and base camp facilities. We also have the flexibility to provide expedition logistics and facilities for independent groups wishing to climb without supplementary oxygen or attempting other routes than the south east ridge.
The team will have a minimum number of three clients, and a 1:1 Sherpa guide ratio. We also bring a western guide and provide all the base camp and camp two cooks. The trip will involve a tried and tested regime of acclimatisation and carries to put the high camps in, followed by a summit period using bottled oxygen.
9 weeks in total, with 2 weeks trekking time and 7 weeks climbing period.
We work to an agreed principle of reaching specific heights and sleeping at certain camps in a structured fashion over an eight week period having reached base camp, allowing for both stocking the camps and an optimal time for acclimatisation. The programme for climbing members is determined in large part by the Sherpas and their schedule of stocking camps, which in turn is determined by weather and allowing for enough rest breaks.
The first 10 days are spent trekking to Base Camp. There is then a period of rest and settling in. Team leaders will meet and discuss joint operations on issues like putting in the fixed lines.
The next month will be spent making a number of exploratory climbs to Camp 1 through the Khumbu Icefall, and then to Camp 2, where it is important to spend several nights. Weather and adaptation to the altitude will determine the exact days when the team climbs and rests. Carries of personal gear can be made while the Sherpas are putting in all the main equipment up to the high camps. During this time it is also possible to acclimatise by climbing another peak in the locality, such as Lobuche East or Island Peak.
There is at least one visit to Camp 3 for an overnight or two. Nowadays this is a requirement for going higher to Camp 4, and it will be a good chance to really test the body's response to very high altitude. For most people this is the highest point they will reach without the use of bottled oxygen. After visiting Camp 3, there is generally a rest at Base Camp or lower, in preparation for the summit bid.
Once the decision has been made to attempt a summit in a period sometime within the middle two weeks of May (statistically this is the normal period, but people have summited before and after), then the total summit cycle is normally seven days.
A few days spent back at base camp helping to clear the camp is followed by a trek back to Lukla and a flight to Kathmandu. Some people choose to charter a helicopter, which is fine but we do feel that it is important to help the Sherpas clear the mountain.
We will need to sight your insurance policy and advise on what is required and which companies are currently offering policies for high altitude trips.
Mount Everest SE Ridge cost £28,000.00
- Khumbu Icefall Fee
- SPCC garbage fee & BC garbage management
- Satellite phone calls
- Fixed line collective fee
- Himalayan Rescue Assn Base Camp Fund for medical emergencies.
- Liaison officer wages and allowance
- Climbing Sherpas (1:1) and chief guide
- Cooks x 3 Kitchen boys x 3 Porters for average team of 5 members
- Staff rescue and medical insurance
- All meals, cooking equipment and mess tent
- Sleeping tents (1 per member)
- Toilet and shower tent
- Radio sets
- Satellite phone and comms
- Generator, lighting
- First aid kits
- Oxygen bottles (7 per person), mask and regulator
- Gas cylinders and gas stoves
- Fixed rope and snow bars
- Mountains tents for high camps (North Face VE25)
- C2 Mess tent and cooking equipment
- Cargo from KTM to Lukla
- Domestic Flights to Lukla
- Trek costs to Basecamp and yaks
- Accommodation in guesthouse in Kathmandu
- Permit fee for Everest (normally $11,000 per person paid to the Govt of Nepal, figure can be more depending on group size)
- International airfares to Kathmandu
- Personal Insurance
- Personal cargo costs
- Personal equipment/climbing gear/vaccinations
- Nepal visa
- Satellite phone/internet use ($2.50 per minute)
- Additional oxygen bottles ($480 each)
It is a requirement of the permit for all members to have adequate insurance to cover all eventualities up to the summit of Mount Everest. Few companies are willing to provide this but we can recommend some providers. It will be important to cover trip cancellation due to unforeseen circumstances, and rescue and repatriation from Base Camp which costs USD$10,000. Note that there are no official rescue operations above base camp.
Adventure Alternative Nepal is the company we have set up and invested in over the years, and there is a full complement of staff and equipment available for all major expeditions.
It is a requirement to be in a state of peak physical fitness for this expedition, and this normally requires a nine to six month lead-in time. An exercise regime which incorporates cardiac strength with training on all the major muscle groups, in particular the thighs and calfs, and the back. Regular hillwalking with a pack on is the best exercise, building up the miles over time and carrying larger packs to a maximum of 15 kilogrammes. The optimum schedule will be to use smaller weights with increased repetition, all the time checking recovery rates.
As important, if not more so, is the mental preparation for a trip like this. Climbing Mt Everest is a tough expedition on the mind, and also for the people you leave behind at home. Be prepared for a rollercoaster of emotions, long days of inactivity followed by short periods of extremely strenuous activity. Boredom, loneliness and missing home are common feelings, and it is impossible to maintain a continual feeling of elation and anticipation for so long. This is where maturity, patience and a love of just being in the mountains is so important. Every day is an experience and must be taken as just that, the summit will be a bonus and a process of cumulative good decision-making and luck.
We recommend that you slow down the intensive physical training about a month before the expedition, it would be a shame to have an accident like a strained muscle in the few weeks before the expedition. Then, when you arrive in Nepal, the trek in to base camp will establish a good level of mountain fitness, and then the first weeks climbing up to Camp 1 and Camp 2 will provide necessary acclimatisation and continued fitness
- All our expeditions are personally planned and led by Gavin Bate and the team of Sherpas in Nepal.
- Full time staff from our Nepali subsidiary company ,Adventure Alternative Nepal, are experienced Everest climbers and logistics managers.
- Members of our own staff have climbed Everest many times and can give you direct advice and information from personal experience.
- We have many years of experience in the organising and running Everest expeditions.
- We will meet and talk to you personally to agree a expedition format as a team.
- We have been running treks and expeditions to the Khumbu region for many years and have made many friends and partnerships with the local Nepali communities.
- We are passionate about responsible tourism and our company supports sustainable development in Tanzania, Kenya and Borneo in a real way.
- Financial security guaranteed as we are AITO bonded.
- We are members on Interhealth which gives you access to pre-trip health information and on-site assistance by phone in the event of an emergency.
We provide a complete advisory service for people with aspirations to attempt Mount Everest or other 8000 metre peaks. This includes a reasonable and safe acclimatisation programme over a period of time in order to build up the necessary experience and test ability and metabolic response to being at high altitude. We also look at specific challenges facing the aspirant Everest climber, including using fixed lines, using supplementary oxygen, campcraft, maintaining good health at high altitude for long periods, mental preparation and teamwork. Despite being the highest, Everest is not the most difficult of the 8000 metre peaks, but it does present certain unique challenges which need to be addressed. Principal among these is the fact the final camp at just under 8000 metres, puts a considerable strain on the body. Preparation and planning will be a big part of the journey for any member of our team.
Gavin Bate is the co-ordinator and guide on our Everest expeditions. He has organised and led six expeditions to the mountain since 2000, both north and south sides, including three times without bottled oxygen and twice alone. He reached the summit on 20th May 2011 and has many years of experience handling logistics and decision-making on high altitude expeditions. He has trained for the Mountain Leader and International Mountain Leader Awards and has been been leading expeditions to the Greater Ranges since 1995.
The company Adventure Alternative has invested heavily in it's own subsidiary company Adventure Alternative Nepal which has a large office and guesthouse in Kathmandu and all the equipment needed for large scale expeditions. We have been running climbing and trekking trips in Nepal for fifteen years and have all the necessary registrations in place.
The staff in Nepal are all long term employees who have had considerable climbing experience and training. Pasang Tendi Sherpa, Director of AA Nepal, has made six expeditions to the mountains and summited three times; Lopsang Sherpa has made the summit three times in four expeditions; Furtemba Sherpa has climbed Everest 11 times and summited eight.
PRIVATE GROUP OPTION
We offer base camp facilities and a complete climbing expedition for private groups to Mt Everest, including provision of oxygen bottles, masks and regulators. Contact us for a chat.
There are now commercial facilities available where it is now possible to engage in programmes of simulated altitude exposure. These can make some assessment of your own body's susceptibility and response to altitude effects and to provide a programme giving some degree of pre-acclimitisation and "altitude training".
ADDITIONAL KIT INFO
A full detailed kit list will be issued to expedition members with suggestions on current manufacturers and models where required. We will also tailor some items to the needs of the team and group equipment provision.
Example Personal Kit List (2011 expedition)
One Sports high altitude boots for above Camp 2
Berghaus GTX Alpine boots for up to Camp 2
Base Camp boots (Canadian backcountry, fleece lined)
Casual Shoes (Merrell)
Grivel crampons 12 point with extension bar for One Sports
Black Diamond 12 point crampons for GTX boots
Socks (5 pairs, 2 thick for high altitude & 3 hiking) (Smartwool)
Spare shoe insoles
3 x Buffs
White sunhat with neck cover
Adidas Goggles with prescriptive lens inserts, 100% UV space lens and orange lens
Adidas Climacool sunglasses with prescriptive lens inserts and space lens and orange lens
Spare pair of glasses
Spare pair of Julbo glacier glasses
1 peak hat
3 woolly hats (varying thicknesses)
Petzl climbing helmet
2 pairs windstopper gloves (Berghaus)
1 pair summit down mitts (Rab)
1 pair lightweight down mitts (Berghaus)
2 pair liner glove
1 pair guide gloves
Extreme SPF40 Sunscreen
Dermatone high altitude suncream
Moisturising creams ô€´ Shea butter
Thin thermals tops x 4 (Merino wool and Uniqlo)
Thin thermal bottoms x 1 (Berghaus)
Powerstretch suit (Mountain Hardwear)
Thermal underwear x 4 pairs (Uniqlo, Merino wool, Berghaus)
Thick thermal tops x 2 (Berghaus)
Fleece trousers (Berghaus)
Fleece tops x 4 (Berghaus)
Windstopper salopettes (TNF)
Fleece Monkey jacket (MHW)
Summit down jacket (Rab)
Lightweight down jacket (Berghaus)
Summit down trousers (Rab)
Windproof trousers and jacket (Berghaus paclite)
Walking Axe (Grivel & Petzl Icewalker)
Harness (alpine bod)
10 ice screws
Cows tail with jumar and safety karabiner
2 man ropes, 30m x 8mm dynamic
Descender (figure of 8)
3 screwgate karabiners
3 long slings, 4 short slings
Suunto Explorer (altimeter, barometer)
GPS Garmin Explorer
Extrem 90 litre rucksack (Berghaus)
Extrem 45 litre daysack (Berghaus)
100 litre TNF bag
Many stuff sacks
Rab Summit down sleeping bag (above BC)
Ajungilak synthetic sleeping bag (BC)
1 litre metal flask
1.5 litre water bottle with Nalgene cover (Bradley Alpinist)
2 x 1 litre Nalgene water bottles with down bottle cover and neoprene cover
Petzl Duobelt headtorch with remote battery back
Petzl halogen headtorch (AA batteries)
Black Diamond mini headtorch
Walking poles (Leki Makalu)
1 Full length Thermarest
2 closed cell sleeping mats
Thermos food flask
Thermal mug (Bradley Alpinist)
Box of repair kits
Pee bottle (2 litre)
Supergreens plant extract
Acai berry powder
Berocca Vitamin C
Pharmaton for fatigue
Intra biological extract
Pulse Barryvox avalanche transceivers x 2
Canon EOS + charger, hand bracket, light,
Go Pro HD Camcorder
Canon IXUS digital camera + AC charger unit + DC lead + data lead
LINKS TO RETAILERS
At Expedition Kit Hire our aim is to provide a seamless, first class customer service for our clients, offering top quality clothing and equipment to fit the demands of any expedition from Polar, high altitude, desert or tropical treks across the globe. If we don't stock a product, we probably can so please get in touch.