Mount Kenya Batian Peak

We offer private guided ascents of Batian Peak, the true summit of the spectacular Mount Kenya. After the trek in and acclimatization, the technical climb is completed in one long day as a series of up to 21 pitches. There is a comprehensive kit list for a climb on Mount Kenya and previous experience of outdoor multi-pitch rock climbing is a must for this trip. We provide a technically qualified and experienced guide but the route is committing and long and participants would need to be familiar with leading long runouts, long abseils/rappels and putting in safe protection. 

The risks associated with the hazards on this climb cannot be entirely removed by our planning or the decision making of the guide. Controlling these risks relies on your own skills and experience as well as those of the guide. Therefore it is important that you fully understand the hazards and are confident that you have the relevant skills and experience to help control the risks. 

When to climb

The North Face routes on Mount Kenya are usually climbed during the northern hemisphere's summer (June through to August although September and early October could be a possibility too). As the mountain is on the equator the sun will be slightly to the North of the mountain during these months. This means that there is less snow and ice, making climbing easier, with some sun on you and warmer rock. 

The rainy seasons in Kenya are usually April, May and October/November. If you would like to climb in the December - March season then please see our page for climbs of Nelion via the South East Face where it is possible to summit Nelion on the south-east face and Batian via the Gates of Mist.

Suggested itinerary

Batian Peak difficulty

The summit climb is long, usually around 11 to 13 hours to complete with the base of the route at 4600m and topping out at 5199m. Good acclimatisation and fitness is essential, as well as the right kit for exposed conditions including mist, rain and snow and cold rock. 

Trek Phase approaches the peaks from the east on the Chogoria route. Terrain is forested initially, entering moorland and high alpine desert and eventually onto rocky glaciated landscape. A visit to Point Lenana for acclimatisation involves some scrambling on snow and ice. 

The rock climb is usually between 16 and 21 pitches depending on rope length and confidence, group size and local conditions. Pitches vary from sections of low grade scramble to around grade UIAA IV+ (UK V.Diff-Mild Severe, US 5.5) but with most being at around UIAA II (UKDiff, US5.3). This assumes we take the West side variation at Firmin's Tower. 

The rock is Nepheline Syenite which is similar to granite, blocky and abrasive with weathered fissures running vertically and horizontally  offering good holds and friction. However, there are loose boulders, rocks and sandy scree in the amphitheatres and easy-angled couloirs. Helmets are essential.

Almost all the standard belay points are made with slings around rock spikes and boulders. A couple have pitons in place and one or two have a drilled bolt. Protection between belays is almost exclusively trad with self-placed nuts & cams placed and a few pitons along the way too.

Lower section

Objective dangers

The first and most obvious is the length of the climb. An average rope-pair will take around 11 hours for the ascent and rappel back down. Stamina at a fairly consistent grade will take energy, efficiency and concentration. Good past experience of similar routes will definitely help. 

A second consideration is the altitude. Weight of bags and ropes and racks will appear much heavier at over 4000 metres. We do have a good acclimatisation programme for the walk-in, but it will be important to keep hydrated and fit and well rested. 

Further considerations are the cold and weather. Choose the right season and include a spare day for bad weather. It is common to have low visibility with thick mist, wet rock and a cold wind. This route does not get the sun until well into the day. 

Route finding is an issue, not just because of low visibility. The upper section in particular is not at all obvious and the abseil descent requires concentration and care. There is a small bivi hut enroute and it's very useful if the weather comes in and you find the climbing too slow. But you will need to take bivi kit with you, since there is nothing in the hut. 

Remoteness is a consideration too; although Shipton's Hut is close by the base of the route, once on the climb there are almost no other people to rely on. There is quite poor communications on the mountain, except in the huts, and no official rescue team. There is the possibility of a helicopter for evacs down at the camps but this is not to be counted on at all. 

 
High section in challenging conditions

Transport 

The itinerary is based on starting the journey from Embu town on the eastern side of Mt Kenya and finishing in Naro Moru town on the western side but all our Mount Kenya climbs have lots of optional extras if needed, including private transport from Nairobi, accommodation arranged in Nairobi, Naro Moru or Embu, extra nights on the mountain, tailor made safari's or visits to our Moving Mountains projects on the lower slopes of Mount Kenya.

You are welcome to adjust the itinerary and reduce your time on the mountain and we're more than happy to build an itinerary to suit your budget and preferences. The advertised itinerary provides a great acclimatisation program, if you've been at altitude recently and feel that you can reduce the number of days on the approach or descent then we can put together a tailor made option which will reduce the price if the number of days on the mountain reduce, just send an enquiry through the website and we'll give an updated price.