Mount Aconcagua, 6962m

Mount Aconcagua Horcones Valley Route  (North)

Much of the hiking is on scree and rock. Although there are no permanent snowfields, crampons and ice axe are still required for the higher sections. Sometimes the final few hundred metres is covered with ice and snow which is much easier to crampon up, than having to walk up on loose scree after a dry winter.

Walk in

The route for the Horcones Valley on Aconcagua starts from the road at Puente Del Inca with a two day walk up the Horcones Valley (stopping at Confluencia along the way to acclimatise), a long and dry valley all the way to Plaza del Mulas. The weather can be very extreme, either very hot and dusty or with the potential for snow, wind, hail and storms. The route has stunning views of surrounding peaks and cliffs, with dramatic striations and colours especially with the setting sun on  them.

We use mules to take all the gear to this point and stay overnight at Confluencia Camp for two nights. The third day’s walk to base camp takes a whole day and it is tough. It is not uncommon to feel dehydrated, tired and slightly altitude sick on reaching Plaza del Mulas (4200m).

At base camp, there is little or no vegetation, and it is dry and cold with temperatures ranging from -15 to +15 degrees Centigrade. Here we put up our tents and use local base camp services for meals, toilets and showers. There are charging facilities and a free medical service.

Base Camp to Camp Canada is about four hours to 5000 metres on a long easy scree slope with a zigzag path. We have to manage some carries of food, gas and equipment.

Camp Canada to Nido de Condores is about four hours to 5400 metres on scree and snow with a path. We will have to stock this camp with food, gas and tents. Nido can be very windy with deep snow. Decisions on summiting are made here since above this camp our supplies will be limited.

Nido de Condores to Berlin Camp is about four-hour hike to 5940 metres, on rock and snow. Everything required for summit day will be carried up in one load normally, so heavy rucksacks are normal. Another option is to hike a little further to Camp Colera (5980m) which is a little more exposed but has more space.  This is a dramatic place to camp with exceptional views over the Andes. We try hard to get some rest, liquids and food into us before attempting to reach the summit.

Normally summit morning begins at about 3 am. Berlin Camp or Camp Colera to the summit is about 8 - 10 hours to 6962 metres on rock, snow and ice, and then about 3 - 4 hours descent back to camp. Summit day is long and hard, very taxing on energy and a considerable achievement. It is always cold and windy and great effort must be put into looking after yourself. This is not a place for cheap equipment.

There are several sections to the summit route, starting with an initial ascent on the mixed ground up to White Rocks at 6100 metres. From here there are fine views over the Polish Glacier and a long set of zigzags on the exposed ground leading up to the Independencia Hut. By now the sun will be up, and the wind and cold can be savage.

There is then a long, low rising traverse to the base of the Canaleta, a 400m steep ascent on a mixture of scree and snow, and then a traverse to the Cresta del Guanaco just below the summit.

From here it is another 30 minutes to the summit itself which is quite large; normally spend about 20 minutes on the top taking photos.

The descent back to base camp at Plaza del Mulas is over two days. Either sleep again at the top camp after the summit attempt and the next morning return to Nido de Condores to pick up the remaining gear and brave a very heavy rucksack back down to base camp. Or pack up the tent and get down to Nido straight away, and descend to base the next morning. 

GPS Co-ordinates for the Horcones Route
The 1:40,000 map ‘Cerro Aconcagua’ (ISBN 978-3-9523294-0-5) is compatible with GPS and uses the WGS84 co-ordinating system. You can buy it online from Climbing Map for about €17.50. Below are the GPS coordinates for the main places visited on the Horcones Route and summit day.

Mount Aconcagua broad plan

We always make sure that the first five days involve carries but sleeping low at base camp eating and sleeping well, followed by a summit cycle that allows a few nights at about 5500 metres and then some flexibility for going to the final camp and the Aconcagua summit. 

How fit do I have to be to climb Aconcagua?

You will need to be in good physical condition. If you have not been to altitude before you must consider that 7000 metres is very high and you will need to monitor your ability to acclimatize, which will require patience and good judgment. Atmospheric pressure is 40% of sea level at the summit but people do not generally use supplemental oxygen for this expedition. Good physical fitness will aid your ability to trek at high altitude and carry a rucksack, assisting your body with it's acclimatisation, and it will of course make the trip more fun if you are not constantly feeling defeated by the demands of the trip.

Train the thigh and calf muscles, and work on lots of stamina training, cardio-vascular work and as much hill walking with a rucksack as possible. You cannot train for altitude anywhere in the UK or Ireland, so concentrate on arriving with the confidence of feeling fit and mentally prepared. Put on a little weight in the weeks beforehand and don’t over-train in case you strain something! 

A gradual approach to training, several hours per week in the gym with a good walk on the weekend, will suffice. Pilates is excellent preparation, as is swimming, step machines, rowing and walking up stairs or hills. Practise also sleeping on hard surfaces since for some people the shock of lying on rock and ice in a tent can lead to sleepless nights. Sleeping tablets are strongly discouraged on a mountain trip because they slow down the rate of breathing, so it is important to give your body the best opportunity to rest. Work on feeling comfortable with a day hike and carrying a rucksack of around 15 kilos. It is also important to get your feet hardened and ready for the trek, since blisters will stop you faster than anything. Remember also that double boots or plastic mountaineering boots are quite heavy and stiff, so practise with them on and comfortable with a pair of thick mountain socks.

Note that members now need to undergo two medical examinations at base camp before being allowed to ascend higher. We strongly recommend that you have a medical before leaving home and discuss with us any pre-existing conditions such as high blood pressure or a heart murmur, which might affect this requirement by the Park Rangers. They do have the power to prevent you from climbing any higher, however in our experience they are very friendly and encouraging and they will help wherever they can to assist with a safe ascent. They do not condone the use of drugs like Diamox, unless needed in an emergency, preferring to advise on diet and a healthy lifestyle at base camp. So for example they will advise against taking salt in your meals. 

Hiking on Mount Aconcagua

Much of the hiking is on scree and rock. Although there are no permanent snow fields (not including the glaciers, which are technical routes), crampons and a walking axe are still required for the higher sections. Sometimes the final thousand metres of elevation is covered with snowfall which can be consolidated into hardpack or ice, and any person contemplating Aconcagua should be prepared for extremely cold conditions and the need for using equipment competently. This means walking safely on crampons and knowing how to use an axe to arrest a slip, and using poles efficiently. 

Summit day is a big mountaineering day, but the terrain never requires highly technical skills. It is a long hard ascent, and there is considerable exposure to the elements and of course to the altitude. The weather patterns will determine if you spend the day mostly on snow, ice or rock, but expect everything and be prepared with correct warm clothing and good double boots.

The most infamous feature to overcome is the Canaleta, which is a gully choked with boulders that is quite unremitting and hard work. Sometimes you will be on rock, other times it will be covered in snow and often is it hardpack and ice, but either way it is important to watch your feet and be able to move safely on crampons. Coming out of the gully, the route traverses the top of a large amphitheatre and ends up on the final ridge to the summit, with classic views over the south face. There is a bit of scrambling to the summit, but it is not difficult.

As ever, the issue will be keeping enough strength in hand to handle the descent safely. It is a long way down! But with adequate supplies of food, hot drinks in a thermos, warm clothes and a back up of safety gear like a sleeping bag for the group, group shelters and a stove for making a brew, everyone should be fine.

Camps on Mount Aconcagua

Vacas Valley route camps

Base Camp at Plaza Argentina is well facilitated and safe. There are huts for eating, medical facilities where everyone needs to get their permit stamped to show they are medically fit for continuing upwards, and it is very sociable.
Camp 1 at 4880 metres has plenty of tent spots and is spread out over a huge area which is often snow-covered. The wind can be strong here but the route is not difficult. There is some running water here.
Camp 2 is called Guanacos Camp and has an altitude of 5400m, and is over the Ameghino col. There is running water here, plus the support of other teams using the same camp space.
Colera Camp at 5970m is the last camp, but sometimes teams try to summit from Guanacos Camp, depending on conditions and strength of group.

What experience do I need for Mount Aconcagua?

Good teamwork, lots of knowledge about mountains and altitude sickness, and experience of camping at altitude and in cold weather conditions in a tent. We don't recommend Aconcagua to people without experience of multi-day trips, high altitude (at least up to 6000m) and winter camping. 

Technical mountain skills are not vital on Aconcagua, but a good knowledge of camping and self-preservation in cold weather conditions is very important. Erecting tents, using the gas and white gas stoves safely, cooking tasty recipes in the outdoors, packing rucksacks effectively, dressing correctly and managing your personal climate are all skills which have to be learnt and understood. 

Putting a tent up in a gale is not easy and cooking a dehydrated meal for 3 people in a confined space is difficult, as is making water from ice and equally peeing into a bottle inside your sleeping bag! During rest days at base camp and hopefully prior to the expedition there will be time to learn and practise. Good teamwork will come from this and it is the key that gets everyone to the top and back down again. Physical fitness in itself will give people confidence to climb the mountain, but the preparation should also involve reading about the mountain, and working on camping skills. 

We have a page entitled 'Acclimatising Safely', both of which should give you some excellent knowledge on what is happening to your body up high. This is something that you cannot train for at home and understandably there is sense of apprehension about what will happen. The more you know the less afraid you will be, and the more confidently you can climb the mountain.

When is the best time to climb Aconcagua?

It is best to climb during the official season because the weather is more stable and it is warmer. You are more likely to have longer periods of high pressure bringing good weather. Aconcagua is affected by the maritime weather coming from the Pacific Ocean and storms can come very quickly, along with high winds and heavy snow. When this happens it is possible to wait for several days before there is a change, after which there is likely to be deep unstable snow conditions up high. High season is, therefore, best, but it is also possible to still get the good weather at the start of the shoulder season in February. 

Also, the necessary logistics are more likely to be available in the high season and shoulder season, for example, mules, porters and base camp provisions like meals, showers and so on. The shoulder season is also fairly busy so the facilities will still be there. One downside is that at the zenith of the climbing season, mules and porters are often pre-booked and accommodation facilities full, and the cost of virtually every product, including a permit, is higher. 

Aconcagua climbing permit

The office for the climbing permit on Aconcagua is on Visitors Center (Subsecretaria de Turismo), sited in 1143 rd San Martin Ave., Mendoza City. You will need to fill in the registration form online first of all and this is then countersigned by our local agent. On arrival in Mendoza, we take the signed form to a local Government cashier and pay the required fee for the permit in local currency pesos. Having got the receipt, we then take the form to the visitor's centre and the Aconcagua park office where they will hand out the actual permit.

The office is open 8 am to 6 pm Monday to Friday, but only 9 am to 1 pm on weekends. The validity of the permit is 20 days for a full ascent, which starts from the date you enter the park.

Prices do change year to year and are also dependent on the season. You can check the current prices at aconcagua.mendoza.gov.ar

Aconcagua Porters

There are porters on both sides of the mountain who are available for hire. Adventure Alternative will sometimes use porters for group equipment (tents, food, stoves etc) although generally, we carry everything as a team. It is possible for individuals to hire a porter or to club together with other members and hire a porter for heavy items. 

The cost depends on how far they have to carry. A porter to Camp Canada or Camp 1 on the Vacas Valley side costs about USD$130 and to Nido de Condores (or Camp 2) USD$180.00. A porter carrying 15kgs to the final camp (Berlin or Colera) will cost $240. This figure covers doing the carry up and down.

The porters only accept cash and normally only in Argentinian pesos or US dollars. Some of them have their own rucksacks, but you should be prepared to use your rucksack for this purpose if necessary.

It is possible to call the base camp service station from the high camps using VHF radios and order a porter, for example, to help with the descent.

Food and accommodation on Aconcagua

Mendoza - in the city we use a comfortable hotel with twin rooms and ensuite bathrooms. The city has a fantastic range of restaurants and bars, and is famous for its wine. We suggest you fully enjoy your time here, it's a wonderful place to spend time and eat and drink. 

Puente del Inca - on the way to the mountain we stop for a night in a local hostel or hotel in this village at the base of the mountain. The accommodation here is in shared dormitories with communal bathrooms and hot showers. There is a moderate range of food on offer which is likely to include chicken and pasta and lots of local red wine.

Confluencia - a simple camp with tents and a mess tent with toilets nearby on the way up the Horcones Valley.

Base camps (Mulas or Vacas) - facilities are provided by our local provider (Aymara) and the area effectively turns into a semi-permanent village. We will be camping in two-person tents but there are communal showers and toilet facilities to use. Meals are served in large mess tents furnished with tables and chairs and we will have a chance to meet other climbers of various nationalities who share the facilities. Expect plenty of high carb meals, meat with vegetables, soups and plenty of hot drinks. 

On the Mountain - above base camp, anything we wear, sleep in or eat must be carried up to the camps. We will generally sleep in teams of 2 or 3 to each tent. We cook on Soto gas stoves and melt snow for drinking water and cooking purposes. We will buy all of our supplies in Mendoza and some will be dehydrated meals such as pasta, noodles, soups, oatmeal etc. perhaps supplemented by some dried meat & vegetables or tinned fish and also 'wet meals' in a bag which need to be heated. We will be bagging and carrying out all of our own waste.

Why climb with us? Professional credentials

• Our guides are qualified to UIAGM, UIMLA or MIC standard and have been working with us for many years. They have previous experience on Mount Aconcagua and we employ them for their friendliness and good team dynamics as well as their professionalism.
  
  
• We use a local provider for mules and base camp food, and we have found them to be very professional and reliable.
  
  
• We provide proper advice prior to the trip from guides who have been on Mount Aconcagua and who can spend time on the phone discussing training, equipment and so on.
  
  
• We have an itinerary with plenty of time for acclimatisation and we have several opportunities for summit days.
  
  
• We have been running trips to Mount Aconcagua since 1997, and we have extensive experience of high altitude expeditions.
  
  
• We have the required bonding in place for financial protection of your money.
  
  
• We are an ethical company with a strong attitude towards the protection of fragile mountain environments and local employment and we adhere to the Aconcagua Park rules.
  
  
• We guide the Seven Summits and can offer practical advice on all of them. Our Aconcagua facts page is a realistic 'under the gloss' view. 

Mount Aconcagua Peak Classification and Misconceptions

Aconcagua is not classed as a technical peak, it’s often described as a high altitude walk or trek, none of which should fool you in the slightest; it’s not a pushover. Any mountain, technical or otherwise, is difficult when you have to climb to 7000 metres to stand on its top, it’s just that the difficulties are different. The weather can be brutal, the cold can be intense, the wind can be biblical and the physical and mental requirements are large. But it is not a precipitous climb, there are no severe objective climbing obstacles like crevasses and in the right weather, the summit day can be a dream.

It will also be an extreme test of your ability to self-preserve and manage cold weather conditions. This is the big difference between climbing, say, Kilimanjaro or Elbrus, and Aconcagua. You will be expected to show a great deal more experience and knowledge of self-preservation in the mountains, camping, cooking, keeping yourself healthy, sleeping well, hydrating, avoiding cold weather injuries, personal movement and working as a team in a mountain environment.  This sort of knowledge does not just come from a book, it comes from experience, and those who are lacking will find this trip stressful.

Yes, it’s a learning experience in itself, but some time spent out on good Scottish winter days, camping out, carrying heavy sacks and cooking on a camp stove will be extremely useful preparation. People without the experience of being in a tent in a gale in very cold weather may find the trip quite frightening. The tent is very noisy in a high wind, it’s hard to do anything like putting a tent up, cooking a meal, boiling up three litres of water, preparing your bag for leaving in the dark in minus temperature. A lot of people can just stop operating, stop eating and drinking, and just lie in the sleeping bag, feeling disorientated and fearful. This is a dangerous position to be in, and it is important to say that although this is a guided trip, there is only so much that one or two guides can do.

River crossings en-route to Aconcagua Base Camp.

You will be expected to display a level of self-sufficiency at the high camps. People who feel insecure and uncertain will generally exhibit quite wayward and often startling changes of character; they can become withdrawn, moody, angry, upset, and distraught. None of this is good for anyone, so be prepared for potentially extreme situations at the high camps and don’t start the trip believing that the guides will do everything.

The base camp facilities are fantastic. A tented city with showers, bars, toilets, double walled mess tents with wooden floors, amazing food, lots of people to meet...it’s also noisy, often dirty and absolutely full of people in the high season. If you want mountain solitude, then you won’t find it at Plaza del Mulas or Plaza Argentina. This is a very busy place and it can get a bit overwhelming. Once up high you do get more of the sense of being out in the mountains though.

Illness is common, and predominantly because of a combination of high altitude symptoms and some small issue like a cough or a bit of diarrhea. Remember that being at altitude is essentially like hypoxia to your system, so anything you get will be affected to a greater degree up there. It’s absolutely vital to stay as healthy as possible, keep clean and go slowly.

The toilets are metal long drops, perfectly acceptable, but don’t expect a sit-down affair, and don’t expect it to be heated. In the morning, crouched freezing over a hole that has been missed by the last person, and with a queue of people standing outside, it’s not the most pleasant experience. Up high, you make your own toilet area and carry all your waste and paper off the mountain. This is perhaps one of the worst aspects of the descent when the sun is up and the contents have liquefied. Take lots of non-clear plastic bags and wrap it well.

Going to the summit even in good conditions is a real test of physical and mental reserve. It’s not a walk in the park by any means. The route is not difficult to follow unless you end up in a whiteout in which case the huge slope below the Independencia Hut can be a nightmare to find your way off, but it is unrelenting and the wind whips across continually. Once you are at the base of the Canaleta, it’s tempting to think that you’re nearly there. In terms of distance and height gain, you are, but it’s still a lot of hard work going straight up the mess of rocks and snow, traversing the final bowl and scrambling up the top. The one saving grace is the simply astounding view of the South Face in the last half hour or so, which would give anyone a major emotional boost.

Mount Aconcagua as seen from Vacas Valley.

Remember to keep strength in reserve for the descent, it is a long way back to the tent and the weather may well have picked up in the afternoon; make sure you have supplies of food and drink and get a warm tea or coffee in there, and something to eat. A lot of people come back down in a state of near exhaustion, which might be fun to relate when you’re back in the bar at home, but no mountain guide would consider that to be a badge of honour. You come down with energy to spare, mind lucid, ready to put the water on to boil, and feeling nicely tired after a big day out.

Aconcagua has been described by some detractors as a great big slag heap with nothing really to say for itself, apart from being the highest peak in South America. Clearly, this is a subjective opinion, but whatever the case, don’t let such comments diminish the size of the mountain and the potential danger up there. It’s always easy to criticise things, but this is not an expedition to underestimate.

See more information on Facts about visiting Argentina and preparation for climbing Aconcagua.