The Responsible
Adventure Travel Company

Overview

A superb opportunity to enter the world of climbing in the high Himalaya. We use a programme of trekking up the Khumbu valley then ascending peaks of increasing altitude (Pokalde 5806m, Kongma Tse 5820m) to build up to the ascent of Island Peak at 6189m. This process is essential not only for safe acclimatisation but also for your own enjoyment and comfort. The gradual ascent of the khumbu valley and Chhukhung Ri (5550m) and then the peaks of Kongma Tse (AKA Mehra) and Pokalde allows this acclimatisation via an exciting series of ascents which are each fantastic objectives of their own with breathtaking views.

During the trip you will learn many valuable skills in safe travel at high altitude, winter mountaineering skills, glacier travel, scrambling and mixed snow and ice terrain. This is an ideal stepping stone for experienced hill walkers or low altitude mountaineers toward peaks in the greater ranges.

More Information

Imja Tse, as it is known to Nepalese, not only provides an enjoyable climb but also provides some of the most spectacular scenery of Himalayas in the Khumbu region. Seen from the summit, the giant peaks of Nuptse (7,879m), Lhotse (8,501m), Lhotse Middle Peak (8,410m) and Lhotse Shar (8,383m) make a semi circle to the north. The views of Makalu (8475m) in the east, Baruntse and Ama Dablam in the south add more charm for climbing Island Peak.

From Dingboche the mountain is clearly seen as a pyramid of ice and rock. It was named by Eric Shipton because of its resemblance to an island in a sea of ice. The mountain itself is the extension of the South Ridge of Lhotse Shar separated by a col. The ridge rising to the south from this point leads to the summit of Island Peak.

The route follows the Chukkung Valley to Base Camp, from which the summit is a challenging 6 to 9 hour climb depending on conditions. The route includes rocky paths followed by snow and ice, a 300 metre headwall which is fixed with a rope to clip onto, and an exposed snowy summit ridge about 300 metres long which can be narrow and precipitous.

Staff

We use our own Sherpa staff who are employed by Adventure Alternative Nepal, and have had many years experience guiding clients on the mountains in the Khumbu region. Our head guides are Pasang Tendi Sherpa and Lopsang Sherpa, and both have climbed Island Peak many times.

Our head cook is Wongdi Sherpa, and we also employ a number of trekking guides and porters from the villages of Bupsa and Bumburi (where Moving Mountains carries out it's projects). This represents a strict employment policy in the company to not employ people on a trip-by-trip basis, and to provide long term training and development to full time staff, as well as investment in the community through the charity.

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Dates and Itinerary

The start dates refer to the arrival date in Kathmandu and the end date refers to the earliest you can book for your return flight home. When departing from Europe allow for an overnight flight to Kathmandu, but on the return it is possible to depart in the morning and arrive on the same day.

Please note that all itineraries are given in good faith and represent the outline plan. In some circumstances we may have to alter the exact itinerary in response to conditions in the mountains or the group.

2014
12th October - 3rd November
Tailormade Option

Private trips are welcomed if the scheduled dates do not fit, although we do require a minimum of three people in any team. We have our own office and guesthouse ready and waiting for any dates you may prefer.

Broad Itinerary
Days Summary No Days
1-2       
Arrival & rest in Kathmandu (2)
3-9 Fly to Lukla & Trek through Khumbu 
(7)
10 Trek to Chukhung Ri (1)
11-14 Climb Pokalde & Kongma Tse   
(4)
15-18

Trek to Island Peak & climb to summit  

(4)
19-21 Trek back to Lukla (3)
22-23 Fly to Kathmandu & Depart (2)
Time in Country

23 days

Detailed Itinerary
Day Elevation Travel Time Info
1 1400m Arrive into Kathmandu. You will be met by our staff at the airport and transfered to the hotel. Depending on your arrival time you can relax or indulge in some sight-seeing around Kathmandu.
2 1400m Rest day and acclimatisation to jetlag, sightseeing plus trek briefing.
3 2460m 45min flight 2hrs walking Flight to Lukla, walk downhill to Phakding or Jorsale along the edge of the Dudh Kosi River. Easy, busy path, surrounded by forest.
4 3440m 6hrs Uphill to Namche Bazaar which is the Sherpa ‘capital’ in the heart of the Khumbu region. Initially follow the valley to Monjo where you enter the National Park, then cross the river a few times and start a long unrelenting path uphill, with one spectacular bridge spanning a deep gorge. Leave the coniferous forest behind, and arrive at a huge natural amphitheatre with the houses spread around the sides.
5 3440m This is an acclimtisation day which you can rest or enjoy the sights and sounds of Namche. You can also go for radial walks to the Sherpa museum and other local places of interest. Namche is the major trading centre of the Khumbu, with Tibetans crossing the high Nangpa La Pass to reach the Saturday market. Nowadays there are also many equipment shops, internet, bank, post office, cafes, bars, lodges and hire shops. Rest here for a day and take the chance to visit the Everest Museum.
6 3850m 6hrs Walk to Deboche which is near the famous Thyangboche Monastery. The path out of Namche is initially steep and then opens out into a high valley, passing through villages like Pangboche before negotiating two steep hills. After this it is a short walk to the beautiful rhododendron glade where you will find the lodge.
7 4252m 5hrs A gradual gradient up to Dingboche. The path skirts the side of the valley with the river far below on your right and passing beneath the spectacular Ama Dablam. The village sits on the confluence of two valleys and is good farming land.
8 4252m This is another rest and acclimatisation day. In the neighbouring village of Pheriche it is important to visit the Himalayan Rescue Association to listen to the daily lecture on high altitude health, and get a check from the medical staff if required.
9 4730m 4hrs Today we have a relatively easy day as we continue on up the Imja valley on easy ground to the village of Chhukhung (4730m) Island peak, true to its name, raers up ahead of us isolated between the tangle of glaciers all making their way into the Imja valley.
10 5550m 5hrs Today we will set off early to climb up the nearby peak of Chhukhung Ri, 5550m. It is a staightforward walk under foot but the increase in altitude will soon start to tell, we will pack very light with just the safe minimum of layers and water. It will be a hard won view but from the top we will be able to look down to the four different glaciers that all approach our start at Chukhung. To our north we will also see the the giant south face of Nuptse. After a few photos we will head back down to Chukkhung for a well deserved rest.
11 5400m 5hrs We start to make our ascent of Pokalde/ Kongma Tse this morning. First we walk a little way back down the Imja valley before turning north up the gulley of the Niyang Khola. It will be a long ascent but soon we will reach the small plateau where we will make our high camp. The plateau is enclosed on three sides by the peaks above and has a few small lakes fed by a small glacier, it is a great little spot for a camp.
12 5806m 3hrs Today we will push on up to the summit of Pokalde, 5806m. We first climb a short way up to the Kongma La where we will be able to peer down the steep gulley to the Khumbu glacier. We then follow the southern ridgeline up, then along to the summit. After enjoying the spectacular views we retrace our steps back down to the Kongma La and to our camp. We should have plenty of the day left to enjoy our surroundings and maybe explore the plateau a little.
13 5820m 5hrs For our second summit day we first cross the bowl where we are camping and climb on up around the Kongma Glacier and along a short rocky ridge to the summit of Kongma Tse (5820m). Again the 360 degree panorama via Nuptse to the NE, Pumori to the NW and Ama Dablam to the S will warrant some time spent enjoying it before we drop back down to our camp for a rest.
14 5400m 5hrs We will break camp and set off back down the path of the Niyang Khola in its southerly descent to the village of Bibre (4570m). From here we turn to the East for a slow walk along the Imja Khola with Island Peak on the horizon ahead of us, to Chhukhung (4730m).
15 5087m 3hrs Trek to Island Peak Base Camp (Pareshaya Gyab), a small area in a narrow valley alongside the lateral moraine of the Imja Khola lake. We will have a refresher/ training on the use of fixed lines and personal movement on ice and plan our clothing and equipment for our ascent.
16 6189m 6-9hrs An early start for our climb to the summit of Island Peak (Imja Tse 6189m) via the normal South East route. The route includes an initial scramble up rocky paths followed by snow and ice, a 300 metre headwall which is fixed with a rope to clip onto, and an exposed snowy summit ridge about 300 metres long which is narrow and can feel rather airy. After a short time on the summit we return, by the same route, to base camp.
17 Spare summit day in case of poor weather or illness
18 4730m 3hrs Trek back down to Chhukhung for the luxury of a bed for the night.
19 3820m 5hrs Trek to Deboche.
20 3440m Trek to namche Bazaar
21 2460m Trek to Lukla
22 1400m Fly to Kathmandu
23 International flight home

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Cost

Island Peak, Pokalde & Kongma Tse cost: £1,795.00

Includes
  • Airport transfers
  • Internal flight to Lukla
  • Accommodation in Kathmandu for 3 nights - twin/double rooms
  • Accommodation in lodges/tea houses during walk in(twin rooms with beds and mattresses)
  • Three meals per day during the walk in, and hot drinks (e.g tea, coffee, juices)
  • Sagamartha National Park Fees
  • Sherpa guides (English speaking, trained in first aid)
  • Porters (1 per member, carries about 15kgs)
  • Staff food, insurance and equipment
  • Group climbing gear, eg. ropes, ice screws
Excludes
  • International flight to Kathmandu (~£700.00)
  • Meals and drinks in Kathmandu (~£40)
  • Personal costs like drinks, laundry, hot showers, bottled water (~£100)
  • Trip Insurance
  • Visa ($30 for two weeks)
  • Airport departure tax for some tickets (£15 paid in Nepalese rupees)
  • Tips (~£30)
  • Sightseeing Tours
  • Personal climbing equipment and clothing
Cost of Add-Ons and Some Optional Extras
  • Walking Axe: £50.00
    Technical walking Ice Axe for use on the mountain
  • Spa Hotel: £60.00
    Located just outside of Kathmandu is the lovely Spa Resort, Park Village. We can arrange transfers and accommodation at the resort for you. People can then select and 'pay as you go' for the various pamperings and treatments. They also offer classes in yoga and have lovely trail walks in the surrounding hills. This option is all about rest, relaxation and rejuvenation.
  • Moving Mountains Village Trek: £350.00
    This is a wonderful 7 days trek extension which starts when you approach Lukla on the way back from Everest. Two days further and off the beaten trail is two villages which our charity had been developing over the last decade. You are welcome to come and see what we've been doing and get involved. This is beautiful trip, like stepping back in time and will introduce to the traditional ways and cultures of the local people.
Not all about money

Our prices are competitive and good value, and we offer quality, service, security and an ethical stance on tourism in a developing country. We don’t want to be so expensive to run fewer trips and have our staff idle, but on the other hand we believe that running  cheap trips that promote the practise of skimming budgets would result in the porters getting next to nothing, which is something we cannot consider.

We include professional staff and a porter for each member. We do not operate kitties and we use an excellent hotel in Kathmandu with which we have built up a strong relationship over the years.

We have our own licensed company in Kathmandu, Adventure Alternative Nepal and full time staff to operate all our treks, climbs and tours in Nepal

Insurance

Travel insurance will need to be purchased by each team member to cover all costs associated with medical, rescue, equipment, cancellations etc. This should be purchased as early as possible to ensure cancellation coverage in case of any issues arising that cause you to cancel your trip.

The policy must be checked for validity in the regions through which we will be travelling and also for trekking/mountaineering to 6189m. Many specialist insurance providers have common peaks named on the policy description so it is worth contacting the company to check which is the appropriate level of cover. You should bring with you a copy of your policy and ensure your tent mate knows where you keep it. It is also worth bringing a photocopy of your passport and to keep it separate to your own documents just in case you lose your passport.

Adventure Alternative is a member of AITO (Association of Independant Tour Operators), which ensures complete protection for your money.

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Fitness

Type of Terrain

The walk in initially follows the main Everest Base Camp trek and is on a well trodden path all the way though this can be rocky and uneven in parts. It is not precipitous and there is no rock climbing or ‘mountaineering’ which requires equipment. Poles are useful but not necessary, depending on whether you have problems with knees and if you have a personal preference for using them. Higher up, the open slopes and moraine may give you added reassurance with a pole, but again the path is quite easy to follow.

The ascents to Kongma Tse and Pokalde are also steep and tiring and will require discipline to walk carefully amid fatigue. The descent to the Chhukhung valley is straightforward as is the ascent to Island peak basecamp.

Once on Island Peak there will be steep scrambling and trekking then climbing steep snow slopes and a ridge top traverse. You will need to use crampons and a walking axe. Prior use of these would be advantage but not essential. The main headwall climbs at around 45 degrees which will feel very steep and strenuous. We will fix a line here for you to clip in to for emergency protection. The summit ridge can feel fairly exposed and you will need to compose yourself and walk carefully and deliberately.

Height Gained

Kathmandu is at an approximate altitude of 1400m and the flight to Lukla will take you up to a height of 2866m. Island Peak basecamp is at around 5000m and the summit stands at 6189m. Your gain in altitude will be carefully managed to allow propper acclimitisation. This will aid your comfort, safety and chances of summit success on the mountain.

Camps Used

Accommodation will mostly be in comfortable lodges and tea houses run by Sherpa families, unless people specify a preference for tents. Each lodge has a central communal area with stove, while the bedrooms are unheated with two beds and mattresses and pillows. You will need to bring a sleeping bag (3 season is normally enough), and the lodge will lend you a blanket if you ask.
The lodges generally have showers which are powered by gas and they use ‘drop’ toilets (in Namche Bazaar they are generally flush systems now). Sometimes we use tents which are two person mountain tents, and we will provide foam mattresses. The tents are pitched close by the lodge and eating is done indoors.

At Pokalde/Kongmatse high camp we will be camping and at Island Peak basecamp we will do the same. We will camp in small domed mountain tents usually sleeping two persons per tent. The tents are large enough to live in comfortably as long as you are fairly organised with your belongings and work as a team with your tent-mate. Very quickly you will have got some wake-up and bed-time routines sorted and will enjoy the feeling and camaraderie of being separated from the mountain by only a sheet of nylon. We will also have a communal mess tent where you can relax and eat your meals. These will be cooked for you by one of our excellent expedition cooks.

Experience Needed

The trek and climbs are not a forced march and the pace is always slow, the days generally being shorter than a day hike at home. Previous winter walking and use of basic mountaineering or climbing protection equipment and crampons would be an advantage although not essential as full instruction will be given.

We do recommend that you embark on a good fitness programme at least 6 weeks prior to your trip though, and one that builds up general stamina and specific leg muscle groups. There is nothing like hiking with a rucksack to train for this type of trip, so the best advice is to get out into the hills as often as you can. You are likely to carry about 5 kilos in your day sack so this is a good weight to work with.

If you are going to be using the gym then concentrate on step machines which work on the thigh and calf muscles, and try to build your heart rate up to 50% above resting rate. Any cardiovascular activity is good, but remember that swimming will not train the correct muscle groups so it must be added to other exercises to be effective. Exercise groups like bodypump, Pilates and aerobic are all excellent preparation for a trip like this, especially those which work on core strength, balance and stability.

Adventure Alternative Support

The porters will carry your main bag up to a maximum weight of 15 kgs and cater for all the group needs, including assisting you if you need to go back down the valley. Unless specifically tenting, all accommodation is in lodges or teahouses which are very well equipped, warm and sociable.

Pasang Tendi Sherpa is our operations manager in Kathmandu and Director of Adventure Alternative Nepal. He organises all the staff, equipment, permits and hotel arrangements. You will have his telephone number, or the staff at the hotel desk can call him for you. He is the organiser, translator, problem solver, advisor and the main link between you and the UK office. He will talk to the Sherpa guides regularly on the mountain and can make arrangements while you are on trek.

You also have continued support from the main office in Northern Ireland. Should a problem arise of significant proportion then you only need to call us. In the Khumbu region there is still an opportunity to communicate since most lodges now have satellite phones.

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Gear

Kit List
  • 120 Litre Duffle
  • 80 Litre Rucksack & liner
  • 45Ltr Day Pack
  • Stuff sacks, waterproof, various sizes
  • Expedition Jacket primaloft or down insulated
  • Insulated trousers fleece or primaloft
  • Waterproof jacket goretex or equivalent
  • Waterproof trousers goretex or equivalent
  • Gaiters goretex or equivalent
  • Trekking trousers x2 (zip off legs?)
  • Thin wool/fleece layer top
  • Outer fleece/soft-shell
  • Long sleeved trekking shirt x1
  • Long sleeved base layer top x2
  • Thermal Base Layer Legginngs x1
  • Thin liner socks x2 (optional)
  • Thick trekking socks x2
  • Underwear x4
  • General socks x2
  • Warm Hat
  • Buff/balaclava/neoprene mask
  • Liner gloves
  • Warm Gloves/Mitts
  • Down outer mitts
  • Shell mitts goretex or equivalent
  • Sunglasses Cat 3 UV polariod
  • Goggles Cat 3 UV polaroid
  • Wide brimmed Sun Hat
  • High altitude mountaineering boots graded B1 or B2 to accomodate crampons
  • Trekking boots
  • Crocs/Sandals/Flip flops/trainers
  • 4 season sleeping bag (comfort temperature -20C)
  • Compression sack for sleeping bag
  • Thermarest or thick foam sleeping mat
  • Thermarest repair kit
  • Walking Poles with snowbaskets (optional)
  • Head torch & spare batteries
  • Watch with alarm
  • Camera, memory card & batteries
  • Solar charger (optional)
  • Altimeter (optional)
  • 2x 1 litre drinks bottles
  • Lightweight insulated bottle covers
  • 1 litre bottle to urinate in (optional)
  • Toilet roll
  • Ear plugs (wax)
  • Passport & copies, visa, insurance details, money, credit cards, plane tickets
  • Diary & Pencil
  • 12 point crampons (or hire)
  • Mountaineering harness (or hire)
  • Walking axe & leash (or hire)
  • Climbing slings 2x120cm (or hire)
  • Screwgate karabiners x2 (or hire)
  • Ascender with handle (or hire)
  • Prussic loop (or hire)
  • Personal Wash Kit
  • Antibacterial hand gel
  • Wet wipes (optional)
  • Toothbrush with cover
  • Toothpaste
  • Roll on deodorant
  • Shaving gear & small mirror
  • Showergel/shampoo (<100ml for before/after climb)
  • Microfibre trekking towel
  • Personal medical Kit (see below)
Additional Kit Info

Personal Medical Kit
Paracetamol
Ibuprofen
Antiseptic Wipes
Adhesive Plasters
Blister Plasters
Zinc Tape
Insect Repellent
Antihistamine tablets
Sunblock Cream
Water Purification Tablets
Loperamide tablets
Rehydration Sachets
Personal Medication as required:
 eg. Anti-Malarials, Asthma Inhalers, Insulin, Epi-Pen etc

Possible Additional Personal First Aid Items
Lip Salve
Throat Lozenges
Latex gloves
Crepe Bandage
Hydrocortisone Cream
Prochlorperazine tablets (for sickness/nausea)
Ciprofloxacin tablets (general antibiotic; prescription required)
Acetazolamide tablets (altitude prophylactic; prescription required)

Note: you must check with your GP for your personal suitability to all medicines and their possible side effects and interactions. Please inform us of the details of all regular medication that you intend to use though the course of your trip and any relevant allergies and medical history related to them. You also need to check the requirements and regulations of the airline and all countries visited in relation to medications. For example; laws governing transport of some pain control medication and the need keep insulin at a suitable temperature, ie not in the cargo hold.

 

Boots for the climb need to be of a type that will allow fitting of crampons. They also need to be warm and fitted well to your feet. There is a huge range of boots available, a lot of which will not be suitable for this climb. For Island Peak you will need boots graded at least B1 for crampon use. If you are planning on doing more mountaineering in the future on higher or colder routes it may be worth investing in B2 hybrid or B3 rigid Plastic boots both of which will also be suitable for Island Peak. Full 8000m triple boots are not needed for this climb but could be used if you already have them.

Please see our 'More Info' page 'Mountain Boot Guide' for more information

If you choose to purchase your own crampons prior to the trip please ensure that you take your boots to the shop and ask a suitably experienced person to check the fit of the crampons with the boot. Some combinations of boot and crampon do not provide a good match and can lead to poorly fitting crampons and consequent problems on the mountain.

Rental Items

Mountaineering Harness

Descender, ascender, Karabiners and cow's tail

Crampons

Walking Axe

Links to Retailers

 

At Expedition Kit Hire our aim is to provide a seamless, first class customer service for our clients, offering top quality clothing and equipment to fit the demands of any expedition from Polar, high altitude, desert or tropical treks across the globe. If we don't stock a product, we probably can so please get in touch.

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Why Us

  • All our guides are personally trained by Gavin Bate, Company Director and high altitude climber who has made six expeditions to Mount Everest
  • You will get to travel with local guides who not only lead trekking groups but are experienced in high altitude expeditions and even Everest climbs.
  • We offer small scale, authentic adventures, which support the local economy.
  • We do not contract out our trips, we employ full time staff, offering job security and good benefits, and we are continually improving our quality service year on year.
  • We follow the IPPG five guidelines on porter safety
  • Porters' health and welfare is constantly monitored by local and UK trekking group leaders. Through Moving Mountains we consistently work to improve conditions for porters.
  • All the staff in our UK office have been to Nepal so you can chat to people who understand what it’s like to go up for the first time, before you go.
  • We are members on Interhealth which gives you access to pre-trip health information and on-site assistance by phone in the event of an emergency.
  • We are passionate about responsible tourism and our company supports sustainable development in Nepal in a real way.
  • Adventure Alternative underwrites the charity Moving Mountains.
  • Financial security guaranteed as we are AITO bonded.

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