Mount Toubkal - Winter - Morocco
This is a wonderful winter break to climb several 4000m peaks in the high Atlas of Morocco, including the spectacular Mount Toubkal (4167 metres) in winter conditions. The mountains are only around 40 miles to the south of the beautiful city of Marrakech and on a clear day the summits can be clearly seen from the city. The blue skies, bright sun and crisp snowy peaks are a perfect antidote to the winter of northern Europe.
These winter climbs are different in nature to the summer climb in that they will be over snow and ice and require additional mountaineering equipment such as crampons and a walking axe. It is not a technical peak but we will learn some basic alpine techniques during the trip, such as using equipment properly. There is time to get accustomed with using crampons and this climb is an excellent introduction to climbing and thriving in snow conditions and an ideal pre cursor to climbing Mt Elbrus or one of the Himalayan peaks.
Situated in the North-west corner of Africa, Morocco is a land of great contrasts from the white-washed houses on the fertile Mediterranean coast to the arid brown mountains, which are snow capped during winter.
Our gateway to the mountains is Marrakech so called the red city, and Morocco's 4th largest with a population of around one and a half million. We overnight here and have the opportunity to explore this ancient city with its exotic souks, palaces, gardens and heaving mass of dust, noise and colour.
We will hear the muslim call to prayer blasted out across the city at 6am and generally feel a world away from northern Europe, not least as while the UK freezes its way through its short winter days, Morocco usually enjoys clear blue skies, temperatures of 20-30degC and enough sunlight to sunburn the unwary within the hour. The often snow clad summits of the High Atlas provide a wonderful back-drop to the ochre coloured buildings of the city and it can often be quite a shock to see them towering from the horizon, framed by the narrow city streets.
By the standards of more popular trekking and climbing areas in Europe the atlas are still remote and scarcely touched by tourism. On our trip we aim to explore the less well known areas and climb to the summit of some of the less well known peaks. We want you to experience an authentic Berber way of life, and have an appreciation of what a magnificent wilderness area this is.
You can read about one past client's experiences on the trip in a newspaper article reproduced in our blog.
Our treks and climbs in the Atlas mountains are led by a qualified and experienced local mountain guide and supported by a team of experienced staff. This includes logistical backup in the village of Imlil and local muleteers and an expedition cook who is also an experienced guide. All are from the local communities and each has a lifetime of experience of life and travel in this part of the Atlas mountains. We have built up a very close working relationship with our Moroccan staff over the course of many expeditions. Most trips will also be accompanied by an experienced and knowledgeable UK leader.
Our Moroccan guides and staff provide a wonderful opportunity to understand what life in the Berber mountain communities is like. They will lead us through the areas in which they, and their forebears, have grown up and sustained a uniques way of life. They will explain the customs and beliefs of the people and also the nature of the wild open spaces of the mountains and beyond.
Toubkal trip was top class once again. Couldnt fault local guides or Matt. All the staff had smiles that would light up a room for the duration of the trip. I always eat better and feel much healthier on adven alternative trips than I do at home and this trip was no exception, well done to cook, kitchen staff and all invoved in preparing same. Great to have Gav along also for a much needed catch up. Sound bunch of lads in group also which helped to lighten the mood on the early starts. Not forgetting the porters, well done-I'm not even at the races compared to their fitness levels!!. Looking forward to the next trip.
Super trip - in a short space of time you get a wonderful cultural experience combined with some of the finest treks I've seen and done.
What an amazing trip! Four 4,000m summits in 3 days, plus great food, fantastic and knowledgable local and UK guides. What more could you ask for?
Dates and Itinerary
The following itinerary gives a general outline but the exact daily plan may have to be adjusted according to the prevailing weather and snow conditions at the actual time of the trip. For example we may ascend Toubkal on the first day at the Nelter Refuge if the weather is good.
|1||Arrive Marrakech, go to hotel and explore medina, dining out in town
|2||Drive Marrakech to Imlil and go to local riad, acclimitisation walk round town
|3||Trek from Imlil to Toubkal Refuge, using mules and porters for bags, afternoon trek in the area
|4||Mount Ouanoukrim (4089m) and acclimatisation, training on snow
|5||Jebel Toubkal (4167m), this may be done on day 4
|6||Trek to Imlil and afternoon back to riad for local dinner and celebrations
Drive to Marrakech for lunch and then depart for home
optional extra days in Morocco, contact us for options
|1||450m||approx 3.5hr flight from London||Arrive on international flight into Marrakech, and transport with AA staff into town. There will be time to explore the city souks and the famous Jamaaa El Fna Square before a team dinner in the evening. We spend the night in a traditional and comfortable city riad.|
|2||1850m||1.5-2 hrs||After breakfast we have around a 3 hour transfer directly south toward the Atlas mountain peaks. In Imlil you can stay in a local homestay owned by our staff or opt to take a room in the beautiful Kasbah du Toubkal. after lunch we go for a walk round the town and pick up any rental gear that people may need. The views from Imlil are spectacular, out into the valleys below and up to the black and white of the snow capped peaks above.|
|3||3207m||5-7 hrs||After breakfast we will shoulder our day packs and trek up the valley to a small shrine and buildings of Sidi Chamharouch at the foot of a steepening of the trail and narrowing of the valley. From here we wind further up the Isougouane valley to the Neltner Refuge at the foot of the main west face of Toubkal and surrounded by a cirque of towering peaks.|
|4||4088m||7-8 hrs||Today we will walk up the valley to the peak of Ouanoukrim. The mountain is Toubkal's neighbour and the second highest peak in the Atlas Mountains. First we climb the remainder of the Isougouane valley, up to the narrow but impressive col of Tizi n'Ouagane, with views out and down to the next valley. A short rocky scramble emerges on easier ground and a broad slope up to the wide plateau summit. Weather may dictate that we try to climb Toubkal itself on this day but the preference will be to spend this day acclimatising to around 4000m and sleeping back at the refuge for a second night.|
|5||4167m||8 - 9 hrs||Ascent of Toubkal. We traverse and ascend the steep south cwm in the West face, over mixed ground of snow, ice and rock, through various undulations and bowls. Eventually we emerge out into the sunlight at the col of Tizi n Toubkal at 3940m. From here we move up along the SW ridge and a little higher up, get a spectacular view across a small horseshoe at the huge and precipitous SE face of Toubkal and on top the tiny black triangle of the summit trig point. Our steady acclimitisation over the last two days, and in particular our ascent to over 4000m the day before will pay dividends here as we pass other climbers on shorter programmes as they sweat and wheeze their way up the final slopes! After enjoying the views at the summit we will make our way over to the North cwm for our descent. This is a far less used route but allows a very satisfying traverse of the summit and allows us to see more than twice as much of the mountain. We pass the wreckage of a Portuguese plane that crashed in the 60's. The descent is fairly steep but easy to complete in crampons. Eventually, we emerge out into the main Isougouane from behind a spur and make our way around to the refuge. Another fantastic meal will await us, as will an evening of relaxing and re-living the day.|
|6||4.5 hrs||This morning is a possible option for climbing Toubkal but we have to get back to Imlil so most people rest in the morning and then pack up and head back down the valley to get to the riad for a shower and celebratory meal.|
|7||450m||1.5-2 hrs||After breakfast we head back down the valleys to Marrakech, possibly stopping for tea and cakes at the rather swish Kasbah run by Richard Branson. We should be in Marrakech in time for lunch leaving the rest of the day free to explore or for an evening flight. Return flights should be booked for departure no earlier than 14:00 to give us time to get back down from the mountains. Some people wish to stay longer in Marrakech to enioy this famous city.|
In line with good mountaineering practice we will be starting our climbs from the refuge fairly early. The exact time will depend on the peak in question, the speed of the group and the prevailing snow and weather conditions. On the days of the climbs it is likely that we will be getting up between 0500 and 0700 in order to take advantage of more stable snow and rock in the early morning and to minimise the time spent out in the strong direct sunlight.
We will have plenty of breakfast and hot drinks before leaving the refuge and additional bread and cheese is available for you to make a snack lunch for the summit or one of our rest stops. We will usually be back at the refuge by early afternoon, at which time we will have a full cooked lunch. There will be time to relax and socialise at the refuge before dinner at around 7-8pm. As we are usually making early starts we inevitably go off to bed fairly early, however there is a fire in the communual area and guests are welcome to stay there until later in the evening.
Mount Toubkal - Winter cost: £595.00
- All accommodation, meals and hot drinks.
- Mules to transport main bags
- Mountain guides, cooks and porters.
- Ground transportation and transfers
- Group equipment
- International air fare to Marrakech (currently ~£60- £100 out of Stansted UK)
- Travel insurance
- Meals in Marrakech
- Mineral water, soft drinks, snacks and showers in the refuge.
- Optional upgrade to Kasbah du Toubkal rooms in Imlil.
Cost of Add-Ons and Some Optional Extras
Upgrade to the Kasbah du Toubkal: £160.00
This price is per person for two nights in a twin standard room at the world famous Kasbah du Toubkal. Deluxe rooms cost £250. www.kasbahdutoubkal.com
It is important that you take out adequate personal travel insurance for the activities on this trip. Please see our information page in the menu to the right for further guidance and suggestions. If you have any questions regarding the required coverage please do not hesitate to contact us.
We use a local company based in Marrakech for organising the trip and providing mules and staff, run by brothers Ahmed and Ibrahim who have signed up to the Adventure Alternative agreement and understand the British Standard 8848 for overseas trips and expeditions. We have been working with them now for three years and they will hopefully soon be fully integrated into the Adventure Alternative group.
You do not need to be super-fit for this trip, however the climbs are fairly demanding with some long days of sustained walking with a backpack. The effects of altitude may also further tax your body. You will enjoy the trip all the more if you are in good physical shape having exercised regularly and eaten nutritiously over at least the 6 months leading up to the trip. You do need to be in good health as we will spend some time in locations that are many hours from professional medical care. Any pre-existing medical or dental conditions should be fully appraised by a doctor and their nature fully disclosed to your insurer and to ourselves.
Type of Terrain
The trek from Imlil to the Refuge is on a well established path over sometimes dusty and rocky ground. It winds its way up the valley and is generally of a gentle gradient. In its upper reaches it may be covered in snow or ice but owing to its gentle gradient it is generally passable in normal trekking boots.
The ascents of the three peaks on this trip are given the following alpine grades; Timeguida & Ras n-Ouanoukrim (F), Toubkal South Cwm (F), Toubkal North Cwm (F+), Akioud NNW Ridge (PD+)
The actual perceived difficulty of the routes will be hugely dictated by weather/snow conditions, acclimitisation and fitness/experience. The itinerary has been planned to allow a gradual increase in altitude and technical difficulty so that all the objectives are achievable by a moderately fit person with good coordination and experience of mountain terrain.
Some parts of the climbs will involve ascending, traversing or descending snow slopes of up to around 30 degrees. Subject to conditions, this is easily achievable using crampons and with guides cutting or stomping steps where required. It will however need confidence and concentration in places, including taking direction from guides and leaders.
Some short sections of the climbs also include easy angled and featured rock steps and scrambles needing both hands and feet. In some cases this will need to be undertaken whilst wearing crampons. In the majority of circumstances this is actually no harder than doing it in boots but it does again require an adaptation of techniques and careful concentrated movements.
If you have any questions or concerns regarding the type of terrain or the skills and experience required, please do contact us for a more detailed explanation.
The climb will require the use of crampons, ice axe and possibly a safety rope for some sections, it is preferrable to have prior experience using them but this is not essential as full training will be given and the ascents are ordered to provide a good basis for learning the necessary skills. By the end of the trip you will feel comfortable and confident in their use and the trip is in fact a good introduction to the kit before going to the likes of Mt Elbrus or one of the Himalayan trekking peaks.
A few days after you return from your trip we will email you a link to an online feedback questionairre. You can also contact us by any of the means listed on our contact page to give us your thoughts. It is very useful to us to have your feedback both positive and negative. This will assist us in continually improving our expeditions.
- The basic idea of the kit we will take is to keep you warm, dry, protected from the sun, able to move efficiently on the mountains and able to be comfortable in the evenings and night. There is a detailed list via the menu below and to the right but the main points to cover are:-
- BAGS - Large Rucksack ~80L (for a porter to carry) + Medium Daypack ~40L (carried by you)
- SHELL - Top and bottoms to keep off wind/rain
- INSULATION - Warm layered system to keep you warm- body hands & Head
- BASELAYER - Thin layers to wick away sweat and to strip down to when it gets hot
- FEET - Crampon compatible boots, more comfortable footwear for evenings/city
- HARDWARE - Crampons, axe, harness etc to allow you to move safely and efficiently
- SLEEPING - Warm sleeping bag to get a good nights sleep at the refuge
- EATING/DRINKING - Water bottles & favorite snacks for during the day
- WASHING & MEDICAL - To allow you to wash and maybe stave off a headache or blister
Additional Kit Info
Please Note - When the snow line is well down below the Refuges we will need to use porters to carry our gear up to the refuge. We will therefore ask you to pack as lightly as possible so that each porter can carry the gear of at least two people. We may therefore have to limit this gear to about 12kg and about 40L per person. Two people's gear may also have to be combined into one large rucksack. We therefore reccommend that you bring a large lightweight rucksack liner to put all your gear in before it goes into the pack. The ammount of kit that we actually need at the refuge is actually very little. The main bulk of it will be your sleeping bag and a few spare pieces of clothing. If you have any questions about this then do speak to us.
Please note - Although there are some kit hire shops in Imlil, much of the kit there is fairly old and worn and they do not have much stock. Therefore we strongly recommend that you bring all your own gear with you and do not rely on it being available in Morocco.
See the Detailed Kit List here.
Please also refer to our page Weather & Climate which further discusses detailed clothing requirements in relation to likely conditions.
Clothing for the Weather & Climate
From our time in Marrakech to 4000m up in the High Atlas, we will of course see a large change in temperature and exposure conditions. On the trek and the mountains we will need to be prepared for cold conditions with the possibility of precipitation as rain or snow. The following table gives a general picture of the annual weather variation in the valley close to Imlil where our trek begins. Obviously conditions higher up at the Neltner Refuge and on the peaks will be colder and the wind chill will greatly lower the experienced temperatures. You can easily knock off another 10 degrees from the temperatures quoted here to convert them to temperatures at 4000m.
Our clothing needs to be adaptable to the variation in conditions and the best way to achieve this is through a layering system, preferably with zips in the front and even armpits. These zips can be opened and closed as we move to regulate temperature without needing to stop and physically remove garments. Another very useful way to regulate temperature is simply by putting on or taking off a hat and gloves. A couple of pockets in your outer layer can be invaluable for this, or evern sufiing them down the front of your top.
The kit list above can be used as a guide but you may have clothing systems that you have found to best suit your own preferences. The general idea is to be equipped with shell layers for wind and precipitation, insulating layers for temperatures down to perhaps -10 or even -15, base and mid layers for layering flexibilty and good quality boots with fully compatible crampons.
In addition, whilst it could be -10 on the summit, it could also be +20 or more with strong UV in the valley as we approach the refuge in the afternoon. It is likely therefore that you will leave the refuge in the morning with maybe a trekking trousers and over-trousers, baselayer, warm mid-layer, soft-shell, belay jacket, windproof layer, two hats and thick gloves. By the time you return in the early afternoon you are likely to be wearing just thin trekking trousers, thin long sleeved baselayer top, sun hat & sun glasses with everything else stuffed into your daysack.
If you have any queries or questions on kit then please do get in contact with us to discuss requirements.
There are small rental shops in the village in which we stay at the start of the trek. You can in theory hire gear from these shops but the rental stock is fairly limited and often quite well-used. So for example, if a large group or several guides happened to have been to the shop the day before, there may not be any decent gear left. We would therefore recommend that you bring all the items that you will need with you.
There are companies in the UK that rent equipment for use on trips such as this. Some also offer the option of buying the kit at the end of the trip, at a 'used' price, if you have grown attached to it! This is sometimes a good idea for the more specialist or expensive gear if you find that you are having to buy a number of new items at once. Examples might be down jackets, 4-season sleeping bags, crampons and ice axes etc.
- Our Winter Toubkal trip has been carefully planned by experienced mountain and expedition professionals to give you the maximum from your week away in Morocco. This includes:
- Training in mountain skills and techniques
- The chance to summit four peaks over 4000m, some that are rarely climbed by other operators
- A traverse of Mt Toubkal rather than just the standard up-and-down route
- A carefully planned ascent profile to maximise your rate of acclimitisation to altitude. This not only improves your safety but also your enjoyment of the trip
- The chance to travel and stay with and hence learn from local people
- A small-scale and personal service by our own staff from booking, right through the trip and even upon your return
- A system of local employment that is fair and responsible and helps to promote development and investment in the local communities and country. We have built up partnerships with local guides and drivers which are mutually beneficial and exist on a fair and open basis so that the host country and its people may fully benefit from tourism without being exploited. We are passionate about responsible tourism and our company supports sustainable development worldwide in a real way.
- We have received the maximum 5-Star rating for sustainable tourism by the Association of Independent Tour operators.
- We have won multiple national awards for Responsible and Sustainable tourism.
- Adventure Alternative underwrites the charity Moving Mountains.
- Financial security is guaranteed as we are ABTOT bonded.
- We are audited and registered as complying with BS8848, the standard for overseas expeditions
- We are members on Interhealth which gives us and you access to pre-trip health information and on-site assistance by phone in the event of an emergency.