Adventure Alternative

Climb Mount Elbrus – Jewel of the Caucasus

Mount Elbrus Expedition

The highest peak in the Caucasus and in Europe, and one of the Seven Summits.

With an elevation of 18,481', Mt Elbrus is a fine ascent which requires basic mountaineering skills, although high altitude and unpredictable weather make for a challenging and adventurous trip.

This expedition lasts twelve days and allows for travel days, four days acclimatisation hikes in the valleys and five days on the mountain.

Mount Elbrus stands between the great masses of Europe and Asia, dynamic in both region and terrain. It presents a strenuous and rewarding climb, but also includes the full experience of Russian culture, history and character.

The ascent of Mt Elbrus by the normal route is a long climb over a moderate incline that requires good acclimatization but has no technical difficulties. However, despite the apparent simplicity of this route, it can be dangerous. The altitude, variable weather, and often low temperatures can transform the ascent into a real mountain adventure!

Good times for climbing Mt Elbrus are from June through to August, with perhaps the best month for stable weather being July. Each trip is 12 days and we can also organise a stopover in Moscow if you wish. We provide all the accommodation, food and logistics for this trip, and there are no kitties.

The Caucasus Range

This range of mountains links the Caspian Sea to the Black Sea and creates a natural boundary between the steppes of Russia and the southern states of Azerbaydzan, Georgia and Armenia. Caucasus translates as 'more than mountains'.
Mt Elbrus dominates the countryside of the Central Caucasus like a two-headed icy giant. In fact it has two peaks that correspond to two different volcano vents: the western peak (Zapadnaya, left) is the tallest one, while the eastern peak (Vostochnaya, right), 5,621 meters high, still has a gigantic crater 250 meters in diameter. The entire mountain is covered by an immense sheet of ice that takes up 145 square kilometers and in some zones is 400 meters thick.

Climb Mount Elbrus - Staff and Company

Adventure Alternative runs a subsidiary organisation called Russian Adventures (www.russianadventures.ru) based in Moscow. We look after all the bureaucratic details to ensure a problem-free trip.
Sasha Lebedev (right)  is our chief guide on Mount Elbrus and interpreter. He is a reputable author on the Altai Republic and Mongolia. His English is excellent and he is an experienced and safe guide for Mt Elbrus. Together with Gavin Bate, Director of Adventure Alternative, they have achieved a 100% safety track record on the mountain, largely due to the careful acclimatization programme which allows for several days to summit and time to work on familiarisation with being on the snow and ice.
We also use other local guides to help if needed. Our ratio of guide to members is 1:4.

Climb Mount Elbrus - Experience and Route

Mount Elbrus is not technically difficult but there is the danger of weather and exposure, making it cold and committing; it is necessary to have crampons, warm clothing, and good boots for summit day (preferably plastic or at least capable of taking a crampon – plastics are available to hire in Terskol) and a walking axe. Ropes are not necessary on the standard route. Up to the Bochka Huts is walking; from there to the Priut Hut is normally the first part of the ascent on snow.
From the Pruit Hut to the summit is done in one day but there will be an acclimatisation trek up as far as the Pastukhov Rocks which is around 16,000'. This is a very broad slope which ascends steadily over easy ground.

From the Pastukhov Rocks, the route ascends and contours the east peak over a period of some two hours to reach the col or saddle between the two peaks. It is not uncommon to find whiteout conditions here so a decision will be made whether to carry on.

From the col the route follows a more or less direct path up the now slightly steeper ground to the summit of the main peak of Mount Elbrus. Initially a rising traverse on a gradient of about 40 degrees, followed by a short steeper section (45 degrees) onto the summit plateau which is quite broad. From here it is an easy walk to the summit point.

Summit day can be long and demanding, taking anything from 7 to 10 hours. Stamina is required and the climb starts in the early hours, normally around 3 or 4am. You will have two opportunities to summit the mountain if weather is bad, depending of course on acclimatization and the group itself. You will need to be fit for this expedition so we do recommend a good programme prior to going; regular hillwalking, swimming and gym work once a week is adequate.

Climb Mount Elbrus Expedition Fee

The full 12 day trip includes:

In Moscow: Preparation of visa invitation letters, all organisation and preparation of expedition.
In Terskol: local registration in Tyrnauz, coach transfer to Baksan Valley, 4 nights in the hotel Nakra in Cheget (good security, drying rooms, saunas, restaurant, comfortable rooms based on twin/double sharing), all breakfasts, lunches and dinners in restaurants, saunas, local taxis, National Park fees.
On Elbrus: All cable cars and chair lifts on the mountain, accommodation in the New Vista Lodge, Bochka Barrels and Priut-11, local cooks and local guides to assist with the Adventure Alternative guide. Summit day guiding and all food on the mountain.
Staff:
Adventure Alternative Guide Sasha Lebedev
Andrey Panin - administrative co-ordinator in Moscow

Excludes –
Flight:  London–Moscow–Mineralnye Vody–Moscow–London
Visa at Embassy – cost depends on time to receive – normally £35.00 or 50 euro
Equipment hire – plastic boots ( about £8 per day for 5 days); axes/crampons (£15.00 each per trip)
Snow machine to Pastukhov Rocks on summit morning - €200 or $250 per group of 8 (optional)
Personal expensesand excess baggage – estimate £50/€75

Moscow Add-on:

If you wish to visit Moscow for a few days we can provide your hotel booking in advance. We have a guide avialable if you wish and you can go to our other website - www.moscowweekend.ru - for information on what to see.
Moscow guide - $100 per day
Transport - Metro is cheapest, but a car can be $75 per day with your guide as driver
Moscow activities for 2 or 3 days – museums, transport, circus, ballet etc – est £100 or 150 euro
Moscow lunches and dinners – estimate £75 or 120 euro
Nights in hotel in Moscow if applicable - €80 per room (1 or 2 people) per night