Adventure Alternative

Adventures/Everest Base Camp - Island Peak/ Imja Tse

In a Nutshell

This is one of the most popular climbing / trekking peak in Nepal and an easy 5 day add-on to a trek to Base Camp. We offer this to groups of 3 or more and we can supply all the requirements of food, tentage, logistics, permits and climbing Sherpas. The mountain is 20,305’ high and is a feasible goal for hillwalkers looking to stretch their experience to using ropes and fixed lines on a harder mountain with relatively exposed summit ridge.

Overview

From Dingboche the mountain is clearly seen as a pyramid of ice and rock. The mountain itself is the extension of the South Ridge of Lhotse Shar separated by a small col. The ridge rising to the south from this point leads to the summit of Island Peak.

Imja Tse as it is known to Nepalese not only provides an enjoyable climb but also provides some of the most spectacular scenery of Himalayas in the Khumbu region. Seen from the summit, the giant mountains of Nuptse (7,879m), Lhotse (8,501m), Lhotse Middle Peak (8,410m) and Lhotse Shar (8,383m) make a semi circle in the north. The views of Makalu (8475m) in the east, Baruntse and Ama Dablam in the south add more charm for climbing Island Peak.

It is feasible for people who are fit and ready for a challenge. Experience is obviously better, but people have climbed Imja Tse with little experience of being on a rope. We do the training enroute to the mountain and on the mountain itself. If the weather is good and the snow is stable then it is an excellent peak for experience at altitude of a semi-technical mountain.

There is one section of a headwall - about 1000' high – which leads up to the summit ridge. This means there will be fixed ropes in place and you will be required to use a jumar - a mechanical device which uses a toothed cam to grip the rope. This is clipped onto the rope and is then attached to your harness. It will protect you very well.

For equipment you need to bring or hire a harness, an ice axe, crampons, a jumar, medium slings and 2 karabiners (screwgate). These can be hired locally in Kathmandu, Namche Bazaar or even better Chhukung (this means only hiring equipment for three days). We will provide ropes and anchors and there will be adequate guides for the climb.

The Climb

South - East Flank: The usual site for base camp is at Pareshaya Gyab at 5,087 m. From base camp the trail goes round the base of Imja Tse between the moraine and the mountain before turning north-east and climbing steep grassy slopes and small rocky steps. An open gully leads to the high camp at 5,280 m.

From the high camp a scramble across the open gully and take the right hand ridge. After the ridge straight up and cross to the glacier. Upwards, to the left side between the crevasses and serac, and a gully with on your left side rocks and on the right side more open space.

This gully leads to the summit ridge via a headwall which sometimes requires putting in a fixed line depending on conditions. Be aware of falling stones and ice.

The summit ridge itself is a classic and undulates towards the main summit which is reached by a final snow pitch.