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Mount Aconcagua, Argentina

Introduction

Join us on this exciting expedition to Aconcagua, the highest point in south America and the highest mountain outside of Asia. This is a challenging climb for people looking to experience a high altitude mountain of 7000 metres, extreme weather conditions and a high degree of self-sufficiency.

Aconcagua has the reputation as the highest peak in the world which is' just' a walk (ie no mountaineering skills are required), but it should not be underestimated. The weather can be appalling; there are loose boulder fields above 6,500m and there is snow and ice which require the use of ice axe and crampons, and there are long and unforgiving treks to the high camps with heavy rucksacks.

You will need to be in good physical condition. 7000 metres is very high and you will need to acclimatize well, while accepting that some people simply do not respond well to altitude. A 6 month training programme is recommended with emphasis on carrying a rucksack for long periods of time, building up the calf and thigh muscles, working on good cardio-vascular fitness and a high level of stamina. Swimming, step machines and llots of hiking will all help.

We have a programme of acclimatization giving you a good opportunity to reach the summit but sometimes altitude sickness and long periods of extreme weather simply prevents this. Our experience is that if the weather allows it, there is a 75% summit success rate for most groups. We work hard to ensure that everyone maintains a high level of general health during the trip, since diarrhoea or a cough at base camp can prevent even a visit to the high camps.

The reward is a big mountaineering experience, great friendship with your team, and a really satisfying summit day which offers incredible views over the Andes. The area itself is beautiful, with amazing sunsets and memorable weather. The slopes are long and scree-covered, but if this is your first time on a big mountain then it will be a powerful introduction to an expedition involving the set-up of camps, self-sufficiency at high altitude and a need for quality teamwork.

The Mountain

Aconcagua has two summits, north and south joined by a ridge the Cresta del Guanaco, which is nearly one kilometer long. Other ridges radiate from each summit, and the whole massif is isolated from other peaks. Shaped like a giant wedge, it has a very steep and massive face to the South and a gentle slope to the North. The huge Polish glacier flows to the East and a series of arêtes and couloirs flank it on the West.

The route starts with the Horcones Valley, a long and dry and dusty valley all the way to Plaza del Mulas. At base camp there is little or no vegetation, it is dry and cold with temperatures ranging from - 15 to +15. We use mules to take all the gear to this point.

From base camp there are three high camps we use on the normal route:

Base Camp to Camp Canada is about 5 hours to 5000 metres on a long scree slope with a zig zag path

Camp Canada to Nido de Condores is about 5 hours to 5350 metres on scree and snow with a path

Nido de Condores to Berlin Camp is about 4 hours to 5800 metres on rock and snow with a path

Berlin Camp to summit is about 8 - 10 hours to 6962 metres on rock, snow and ice, and about 3 - 4 hours descent back to Berlin Camp.

 

Weather on Aconcagua

In a word, unpredictable! The peak itself has its own microclimate. The weather can be pleasant in the central Andes whilst a storm is raging up on Aconcagua. During the summer months it can be windy all of the time. In the valleys it can be 27c and as low as 3c at night. At camp 3 in the night it can be -15c to -30c. In the middle of the day on the summit the temperature could range from -25c to +15c.
The daily pattern tends to be an early clearing of cloud that often provides clear weather until midday. In the early afternoon clouds usually appear, engulfing the summit by mid to late afternoon, then clearing again as night falls.

Our Route

Our route is along the Northwest Ridge often referred to as the normal route which is non-technical but physically demanding. Decisions made during the climbing period will depend on weather and the health/ability of the group. We will make these decisions together, giving everyone a chance for the summit.

Once the commitment has been made to ascend to Berlin Hut then there is often only one chance to summit. Food supplies and tiredness at altitude will conspire to prevent people from making multiple attempts.

Aconcagua Expedition Itinerary for 2010:

Day	Date	Itinerary
Day 1	Sat Jan 9 2010	Depart on international flight to Argentina.
Day 2	Jan 10	Arrive Mendoza. Overnight in Hotel Crillon.
Day 3	Jan 11	Rest Day, obtain permit, buy food, preparations in Mendoza
Day 4	Jan 12	Drive to Puenta del Inca, overnight in hostel
Day 5	Jan 13	First day trek to Confluencia, 4 hours
Day 6	Jan 14	Trek to Base Camp, 8 hours
Day 7 - 18	Jan 15 - 26	Climbing period
Day 19	Jan 27	Walk out to road head and Puenta del Inca, 9 hours
Day 20	Jan 28	Drive to Mendoza
Day 21	Jan 29	Depart Mendoza
Day 22	Sat Jan 30	Arrive UK

Equipment for Aconcagua

The items you choose to take should be lightweight, dependable and adaptable to a variety of weather conditions. When making the final decision as to what goes into your pack, remember that it’s a fine science to take just enough clothes and accessories to do the job, whilst not over burdening yourself with items you probably will not use. Items available for rent in Mendoza are marked with an asterisk

Main Rucksack - capacity 80 litres for carries to high camps
Day sack - capacity 45 litres

Large duffle bag - for putting gear on the mules, heavy duty and lockable

Selection of dry bags, storage bags for high camps, rubbish bags etc

Sleeping bag rated to -20c - 4 season or good down 3 season with liner*
Thermarest - full length

Pee bottle

Headtorch - good quality with spare batteries and bulb

Ice axe - walking axe is fine*

Crampons - with point protectors and bag*

Sunglasses - close fitting or with side protectors, high quality and full protection

Goggles - for use in whiteout conditions

Water bottles with covers - good quality, since cheap plastic cracks in the cold

Adjustable trekking poles - personal preference if you do not use them*

Plastic bowl or plate, knife, fork and spoon and insulated mug

Plastic boots for high camps and summit*
Trekking boots for the walk in and some carries

Sandals for base camp

ILiner gloves - few pairs

Fleece gloves - preferably windstopper

Mountain mitts - large enough to go over the fleece gloves and liner gloves

Down mitts - for summit day, large enough to go over the liner gloves*

Trekking clothes - long sleeved as well as shorts and T-shirts

Underwear and socks - high quality mountain socks for high camps, and trekking socks for carry days

Base layer - top and bottom

Fleece mid layers - can include fleece trousers, plus tops

Wind proof fleece jacket - polartec 300 standard
Wind proof shell - pants and jacket of high quality 3 ply Gore tex

Down jacket with hood - mountain quality*
Fleece hat which covers ears, sunhat with wide brim, fleece balaclava

Mountain first aid kit for personal use

Suncream and lip cream - high SPF rating
Diary, pen, book
Toiletries, wet wipes and a towel

Camera, batteries

Penknife or Leatherman

Facilities at Base Camp Plaza del Mulas

We will be eating all our meals in large mess tents which are fully equipped and very comfortable. There are bars and small restaurants in the area and also charging facilities if you bring an adaptor for south America with you. There are excellent toilets on site. There is also a hot shower which costs about $10.

Plaza del Mulas has a free medical service too, and helicopter rescue to the Park Gate is free if the doctor decrees that it is an emergency. Otherwise you can go down on a horse.

 

Expedition fee for Aconcagua Expedition includes:
Hotel in Mendoza 3 nights
Hostel in Puenta del Inca 2 nights
Peak permit
Mule transportation for ferrying main gear to and from base camp.
Tents and cooking gear
Transport return from Mendoza to the mountain
All meals on expedition at base camp with local provider

Food for high camps and camping gas
Mountain guide

All organization and preparation

Land Costs do not include:
International round trip airfare to Mendoza
Meals in Mendoza and any extra nights in the hotel
Personal equipment
Travel insurance - we can provide this if you wish through TGIC
Porters - from $130 to $250 depending on which camp they are carrying to